Hey what's up guys? So one of my best friends over here is flying out to Seattle in mid-June to attend a statistical genetics workshop at the UW. She's absolutely amazing, so I told her I'd make up a little "things to do" about Seattle, and I thought I'd post it here as well. I have to admit it was something of a labor of love, I just couldn't stop writing! (btw, if anyone wants to meet her and/or show her around for a bit, PLEASE email me!)
MIKE’S GUIDE TO SEATTLE
IN THE U DISTRICT:
1. Silver Cloud Inn is on 25th and 50th (ask front desk about bike rentals). This is bad as it is next to yuppie central, AKA University Village (the overgrown monstrosity of consumerism across the street). This is where frat boys and sorority chicks shop/eat/spontaneously reproduce. Spend as little time here as possible (only buy necessities at QFC).
2. You are at the foot of a very steep hill (one which I have sledded down many times), therefore to reach your salvation you must scale it to get to The Ave (University Way).
3. The Ave is all about discovery, so I’ll leave it to you to pop into as many wacky shops as possible, but you are hereby commanded to have a grande mocha and berry mazurka at Café Solstice (41st and The Ave.). I spent the better part of 5 years in that coffee shop having intellectual convo with perfect strangers and being blasted by every sort of obscure melody imaginable.
4. There’s literally no end to the independent coffee shops/record stores/obscure book stores/worldly eats on the Ave, so go nuts. Kebabs which put England to shame are across the street from Café Solstice at Aladdin Gyros, and what is rumored to be the LARGEST independent film store IN THE WORLD is at 52nd and Roosevelt. It’s called Scarecrow Video. The movies are organized by director, genre, and nationality (they even have an Hungarian film section!). Many are not for the faint of heart as they are so rare that you are required to put down a $500 deposit to rent them!
OUTSIDE THE U DISTRICT:
1. Capitol Hill. Ah, Capitol Hill. If I was born in the U district, I was conceived on Capitol Hill. This is the artistic, counterculture beacon of Seattle (although most of the art galleries are on the other side of Downtown in Pioneer Square). Intellectuals may inhabit the amazing coffee shops of the U district, but artists migrate south to imbibe their brown, liquid crack on Capitol Hill. This is where grunge was born. Broadway is the main drag (pun intended) here, but it has become slightly commercial. I *HIGHLY* recommend having a dessert at B&O Espresso (Belmont and Olive, just below Broadway). I have NEVER had better anywhere and the atmosphere is just unbelievable. Sadly, they took down a painting of Napoleon which I would have paid handsomely for… The theaters here play very obscure stuff and have late theme nights, The Egyptian and The Harvard Exit are two to check out. Joe Bar (across from the Harvard Exit) RULES! Joe’s the coolest guy I’ve ever met.
2. Wallingford. Just west of the U district (across the freeway). Dave Mathews lives here and hangs in the cafes when he’s not touring (he’s married to a UW medical student). 45th St. is full of cafes, bars, and idiosyncratic restaurants. The Guild 45 theater plays some of the best movies I’ve ever seen. A bit beyond this neighborhood lies…
3. Fremont. Home of a GIANT troll under a highway bridge and many eclectic clubs and trendy bars. Used to be that it was shrouded in pot smoke from the 1960’s to the early 90’s, but then a double whammy of high weed prices and a supply shortage of bongs cleared the air enough that most of the hippies stumbled off their porches and into bay (or so legend has it). World Cup Football will most certainly be televised at the only ‘authentic’ British pub in Seattle: The George and Dragon. Surprisingly, a lot of Greeks show up here as well. I was practically reduced to a deaf mute the last time I was there with chants of ‘Hellas! Hellas!’
4. Downtown. A lot of fun for shopping or the Seattle Art Museum or actual performing arts theaters. Check out what’s playing at the Moore Theater (Portastatic is playing July 16th and O.A.R. on July 17th) or the Intiman Theater (Winner of best performing arts theater in the Western U.S. this year, Richard III is playing while you’re there). The Crocodile Café (the Croc’) is where Pearl Jam, Soundgarden, and Nirvana all got started. It is absolutely worth a night out with other total audiophiles. Tapes N’ Tapes are playing July 19th (Unclassifiable indie, their guitars bounce more than The Futureheads!), The Pillows are playing July 24th (Japanese Punk, my favorite Japanese band of all time! Will have to wade through sea of Hello Kitty)
5. Pioneer Square. Between Downtown and the two stadiums (home of the Seahawks, American football, and the Mariners, baseball). This is where all the offbeat, creaky floor art galleries are. Many are heavily influenced by the simplicity of current Japanese/Chinese/Korean art (and I believe all are free). It also splits the ultra trendy clubs/bars with Belltown (other side of Downtown, along the water)
SPECIAL NOTES:
1. The Seattle International Film Festival will be wrapping up when you get there (ends on June 18th). It’s a pretty big deal around town and draws some really incredible, underground films. See here:
http://www.seattlefilm.org/festival/about/index.aspx?FID=13
2. If it’s at all possible, get out of Seattle for a day and do a hike in the Cascade Mountains (Tiger Mountain is fun). Or get over to the Olympic Rain Forest, a couple hours west of Seattle.
3. When you are in Berkeley, YOU HAVE TO GO TO ZACHARY’S PIZZA!!!
NOTES ON SEATTLE LIFE:
Lonely Planet: “Never mind that its clear days can be suicidally few - its residents (Chairman Bill, perhaps, excepted) are among the nation's most outgoing and outdoorsy. If you're looking for lifestyle (and who isn't these days?), Seattle has it in spades.”
1. Seattlites are reputed to be the nicest and most polite in the US, so it’s totally cool to ask anyone for directions anywhere or strike up conversations with complete strangers (especially in the U district and Capitol Hill). Tell them you are Greek and they will go out of their way to show you around.
2. The Bus system is decent (take the number 70’s from the U district to Downtown) but the traffic is among the worst in the nation, mostly because we are averse to building more bridges, freeways, etc. Drivers are exceedingly polite, you can tell a Cali transplant by their erratic swerving and obsessive, compulsive use of the horn.
3. There are more “bums” than there were 10 years ago, but do not be surprised if you see one in a coffee shop reading The Economist or NY Times (say Hi to Double Silver Trash Bin Man for me!). The sometimes ambiguity of class in Seattle throws some Americans off because (no joke) many Millionaires drive Hondas and wear jeans/trainers/flannel while those with no money are highly literate and many have college degrees. While I’m opposed to giving money to anyone besides my friends, I try to give them a smile when I pass.
4. It’s considered a serious faux pas to flaunt your wealth in Seattle. Driving a BMW is fine, but ultra-trendy dress or gobs of make-up or showing so-called “superiority” over anyone because of what they look like or do not have typically evokes a collective growl from everyone within earshot (in contrast to LA).
5. We LOVE our microbrews. I can’t express how amazing the beer is in Seattle. It’s nothing like England where all the pubs pretty much have the same rhinoceros diarrhea on tap. There are infinite flavors, served cold but will make even a German sweat!
6. We serve our coffee like this! (only B&O Espresso does it this well :D)
